The previous article discussed the differences in the TOS USS Enterprise studio model from 1st pilot to production. Part 2 will cover some of the problem areas of the 1/1000 TOS USS Enterprise from Polar Lights.
TOS USS Enterprise from Polar Lights. Overall it’s a pretty solid model kit. The parts are clean and have little to no flash. I did find the larger deflector dish tended to be out of round a bit. Some sandpaper and a bit of patience can clean that right up. The only area that tends to need a lot of attention is the pylons and the Bussards and nacelle end caps. These items will be the primary focus of this article. NACELLE PYLONS
Remove ALL the alignment pins/pegs! The ones at the top of the pylons (where the Nacelles mate) interfere with the fit and you’ll go out of your mind trying to get the Nacelles to align properly.
You’ll also want to remove the alignment tabs at the base of the Pylon assembly. This will give you a bit of freedom in the assembly. Without the tabs, you can assemble the secondary hull and make sure all the seams are closed, then slide in the pylon assembly afterward.
Also, it doesn’t hurt to file down the underside of the pylon assembly. It sits a bit high in the hull and removing some material now will save you a bunch of time and putty later. Once the pylon halves are assembled you’re left with a pretty large seam. This is where removing the alignment tabs really pays off. It’s way easier to fill and sand this joint without the assembly attached to the hull. At this point, you can go ahead and start the Nacelle installation process. I’d recommend doing this before sanding as you’ll need to do a little touch up where the Nacelles mate to the pylons…where you’ll need to make some further modifications.
The first thing you’ll want todoit trim back (but don’t remove) the tabs that go into the slots on the nacelles. I’d suggest cutting a bit off and then test fitting, then repeat as necessary. Once you’ve trimmed the tabs you’ll also need to widen the slots on the nacelles. There’s very little material between the slot and the seam between the nacelle halves. If you don’t widen the slot you’ll break open the slot, then you’ll have todo more filling and sanding. Personally, I prefer tokeepmy filing and sanding to a minimum. Next, you’ll need to deviate from the instructions. In them you’re directed to build the Nacelles then attach them to the Pylons. Having down three of this in one sitting I can tell you the attaching the inner nacelle halves to the pylons first is the way togo.
This will give you the opportunity to see if there are any fit and/or alignment issues and take corrective action, should any be required.
Before you permanently close up the nacelles do one more test fit to make sure enough material has been removed from the pylon tabs.
If you’re happy with the fit and there’s no gaps, close em’up and add filler where required.
Remove the alignment tabs! That’s all you need to do for the 1st and 2nd pilot versions. The production version requires a bit more work, but nothing overly complicated. As previously mentioned, remove the alignment tabs. Once they’re cut off you’ll need to use a hobby knife to remove excess material where the alignment tabs were molded into the part.
Once that is completed, you’ll need to remove alignment pins from inside the rear of the Nacelle.
Remove the alignment tabs, they prevent the caps from lining up properly with the etched lines in the Nacelles.
Be sure to mask the connecting tabs where the neck meets the saucer. If there’s any paint on it, it won’t clip in properly. The tolerance is so tight!
The rest of the model goes together (pretty much) trouble free. Follow these tips and you’ll save yourself some headache during the assembly process.